ADA Standards & The Home Inspector

                                         ADA Standards & The Home Inspector

                                                                

I still remember inspecting my first ADA compliant house. I was in the attached garage and saw that there was no height difference at the entrance door to the living space. I started filling out my report and noticed the door pulls. I stepped into the house and immediately realized that this was an ADA compliant home. Most municipalities require a 4 inch drop of the attached garage floor, however this standard has been removed in many municipalities. The reason for the 4 inch drop is gas vapors will hover in this area and not enter the house. A self closing fire rated door that is properly sealed at the threshold is required. Also, a slope of the garage floor is standard on most new construction.

There are also some other differences. Smoke detectors should have audible and visual alarms. Normally home inspectors recommend attached decks should be 1 step below the door threshold. However this would not be the case for ADA construction. Throughout the interior of the house, changes in level should be no more than ¼ inch high or ½ inch high if beveled with a slope no greater than 1:2. You should closely check the flashing in this area and the rim joist / sill plate for decay. ADA construction is something that also is relevant to older people. We inspect many homes for older couples, and having a working knowledge of some factors that may make their home safe is a great service we can provide to them. So how can a home inspector properly advise their clients regarding ADA construction, and what are other things to look for (there is quite a bit of material here. It may prove to be a useful checklist):

  

• Changes in the house that are greater than ½ inch must be ramped with a slope no greater than 1:12
• Accessible doors should have a clear opening of at least 32 inches between the face of the door and the stop, when the door is open 90 degrees
• Door hardware should be operable with one hand and does not require grasping, pinching, or twisting of the wrist
• Operable parts of the door hardware are mounted between 34 inches and 48 inches above the floor
• Doors with closers take no less than 5 seconds to close from an open position of 90 degrees to a position of 12 degrees from the latch
• Interior hinged doors take no more than 5 lbs of pressure to push or pull open
• All secondary doors that provide passage onto exterior areas of the house (decks, patios, balconies, etc.) have a nominal 32-inch clear width
• Controls, outlets, and switches are mounted no lower than 15 inches and no higher than 48 inches above floor and there should be a 30 x 48 clear space in front for easy access
• There is wall reinforcement for a grab bar of at least 6 inches wide by 24 inches long provided centered behind the toilet and at least 6 inches wide by 24 inches long provided adjacent to the toilet. The reinforced area is positioned between 32 inches maximum above floor at the bottom edge and 38 inches minimum above floor at the top edge
• For bathtubs: Grab bars should be positioned between 32 inches maximum above floor at the bottom edge and 38 inches minimum above floor at the top edge and there is 30 x 48 inch clear floor space outside the swing of the door that provides a forward approach to the tub and a minimum of 30 x 48 inches of clear floor space adjacent to the tub
• For stand alone showers: Grab bars should be positioned between 32 inches maximum above floor at the bottom edge and 38 inches minimum above floor at the top edge. In instances where the shower stall is 36 x 36 inches; 30 x 48 inches of required clear floor space is positioned flush with the control wall and 12 inches offset behind the wall opposite the control wall. In instances where the shower stall is 36 x 48 inches; 30 x 48 inches of clear floor space should be positioned parallel with the fixture and flush with the control wall
• The centerline of the toilet should be 18 inches from the adjacent side wall and at least 15 inches from a wall-hung lavatory or vanity
•  There is a minimum of 60 x 56 inches of clear floor space in the bathroom, excluding the toilet
• There is 30 x 48 inches of clear floor space centered on the sink and most appliances to allow for a parallel approach
• Kitchens islands should maintain a 40-inch minimum clearance around all edges
• The sink or cook top has a removable base cabinet that allows for proper knee clearance. This also applies to bathroom vanities
• Electrical outlets and switches are mounted at least 36 inches from any corner to allow for a parallel approach & no higher than 46 inches above floor
• Grates or other openings should have a space no larger than ½ inch
• Wall mounted objects located between 27 and 80 inches above the finished floor  have leading edges that do not protrude more than 4 inches from the wall
• The front approach to the pull side of the door has at least 18 inches of maneuvering clearance beyond the latch side and at least 60 inches of space perpendicular to the door wall

Ramp Requirements

• Any ramp maintains a running slope no greater than 1:12 and a cross slope no greater than 1:48
• The total rise of each ramp run does not exceed 30 inches
• The landings are at least 60 inches long and at least as wide as the ramp
• There is a level landing at the top and bottom of the ramp with a slope no greater than 1:48
• There is a level landing (slope no greater than 2% in all directions) where the ramp changes direction that is at least 60 x 60 inches
• When the ramp has a rise greater than 6 inches, there are continuous handrails on both sides of the ramp
• Handrails do not encroach into the ramp width or into the clear space at landings
• The top of the handrail gripping surface is located between 34 and 38 inches above the ramp surface
• Ramp handrails extend at least 12 inches beyond the run of the ramp
• All handrail extensions are parallel with the level landing and do not ‘extend’ over the ramp run

Inspecting Tankless Gas Water Heaters

 

Inspecting Tankless Gas Water Heaters

Tankless water heaters have become extremely popular and are replacing many hot water tanks. Almost all the new builds I inspect have these units. They are also being used to heat homes using radiant systems. There are two basic types of tankless units; condensing and non-condensing. Here is the difference between the two:

                                                     Condensing:                                          Non-Condensing:

• EFFICIENCY                    Up to 96%                                                  80%
• VENTING                           PVC                                                        Metal
• LOCATION                     Inside / Outside                                   Inside / Outside
• MAINTENANCE            Annual Service                                   When Necessary             

 

Inspection for either of these units is basically the same. The default temperature are normally set at 120 Degrees F. Both water pipes should be ¾”. The gas supply pipe would be ¾” also. It is also recommended that an expansion tank is installed between the unit and the cold water line. I have seen units that do not have expansion tanks. Refer to the manufacture, but most recommend one is installed. Clients always ask me if the tankless units will be adequate. Although it is not part of a visual home inspection, I like to give them a reference point. It is recommended that a 180,000 BTU unit is minimum for an average size house. Smaller houses, possibly for one or two occupants may be able to use a smaller unit (120-150,000 BTU). Consider this: a 200,000 BTU gas-fired tankless unit is able to raise the total water temperature 50 F at a maximum of 7.4 GPM. As a basic rule of thumb, each GPM subtracted from the total allows a 10-degree increase in water temperature. In this scenario, a 200,000 BTU water heater would be able to heat all of the water in a house at a 6.4 GPM flow rate to 110 F, and at a 5.4 GPM flow rate, would be heated to 120 F. Incoming water temperature will also effect this basic calculation. The sequence of operation for tankless gas water heaters:

1-     When a hot water tap is opened, the tankless water heater detects the flow 

2-     The flow sensor activates to determine the amount of hot water needed

3-     The igniter activates

4-     The gas control valve opens to supply the correct amount of gas

5-     The fan and venturi activate to provide the correct amount of gas and fuel

6-     The premix burner ignites providing a flame to heat the water

7-     Cold water is pre-heated in the secondary heat exchanger

8-     Pre-heated water passes from the secondary to the primary heat exchanger

9-     The unit determines outgoing set temperature and adjusts the flame to heat the water

10- Heated water moves to the buffer tank

11- Desired hot water amount delivered to the faucet

What should a home inspector be looking for?

·       Both water lines should be ¾ “

·       The Natural Gas pipe should be ¾”

·       The Natural Gas pipe should be the first line past the meter connected to the unit

·       The condensate drain should drain in an area where it will not come in contact with people or animals

·       A Pressure Relief Valve should be placed as close to the unit as possible. (Many units have an internal high temperature shut-off switch. Check with the manufacture)

·       The discharge pipe from the pressure relief valve should extend to an acceptable drain within 6 inches of the floor

·       For horizontal vent pipe runs, slope the horizontal section upward toward the vent termination at a rate of 1 /4  in per foot

·       Ensure that 3.0” of the exhaust pipe has been completely inserted into the vent collar

·       Exhaust and intake air pipes must be supported at least every 4 ft

·       The intake / exhaust vent should be higher than an anticipated snow line

·       The vent run should not start with an elbow at the vent collar.  Using  an  elbow  directly  at  the collar will not allow for a tight seal between the appliances and vent pipe. A length of straight pipe must be used when starting the vent run

·       Clearance above grade, veranda, porch, deck, or balcony = 12 inches

·       Clearance to window or door that may be opened - 6 in  for appliances ≤ 10,000 Btu, 9 in for appliances > 10,000 Btu and ≤ 50,000 Btu, 12 in for appliances > 50,000 Btu

·       Clarence for non-direct venting (single pipe) = 4 ft below or to side of opening; 1 ft above opening

·       These are the only approved vent piping: PVC/CPVC Schedule 40 or 80 (Solid Core) - UL1738 approved PVC or CPVC - Approved Polypropylene (PP) - Approved Stainless Steel (SS)

·       Air intake and exhaust should be a minimum of 2” or increased to 3” depending on the length of the run

·       For vent sized 2 inch –75 ft maximum run.  A maximum of 6 elbows can be used which reduces the length of the pipe accordingly for each elbow used: Each 90° elbow equates to 8 linear ft of vent pipe reduction. Each 45° elbow equates to 4 linear ft of vent reduction

·       For vent sizes 3 inch – 150 Ft Maximum run. A maximum of 8 elbows can be used which reduces the length of the pipe accordingly for each elbow used: Each 90° elbow equates to 5 linear ft of vent reduction. Each 45° elbow equates to 3 linear ft of vent reduction

·       The use of a PVC or polypropylene concentric termination counts as 5 linear feet of vent

·       For roof terminations: 12” min. clearance above highest anticipated snow level or grade, whichever is greater. Maximum of 24” above roof.

·       The intake and exhaust pipes should be separated by 12-18 inches

·       Most units have a factory-installed, 3-pronged (grounded) plug. The water heater can be plugged into any grounded electrical outlet nearby, as it requires only 2 - 4 Amps. It is not necessary to run a dedicated electrical line to the water heater

·       Advise your client that the unit will have to be flushed periodically depending on usage. Valves located near both water lies should be installed that will allow for this procedure. Not performing this required maintenance will reduce the serviceable life of the unit.

·       With regular maintenance and normal operation these units should have a 15-20 year serviceable life

Ignition / Operation & Chimney Venting Recommendations For High Efficient Heating Appliances

 

Ignition / Operation & Chimney Venting Recommendations

For High Efficient Heating Appliances

Most of the heating appliances we inspect are higher efficiency. Yes there are some dinosaurs out there, but most have been updated. The efficiency of some units are over 90%. I want to go over the sequence of operation and important recommendations a home inspector should be looking for when inspecting higher efficiency chimney vented appliances. We will define “high” efficiency heating units as whole house furnaces / boilers that have an induced fan. You can see past newsletters discussing direct vent units. First the sequence of operation:

1 – Thermostat calls for heat

2 – Combustion air pressure switch proves induced blower operation. Pressure switches are factory set and require no adjustment

3 - After a 15 second pre-purge, the hot surface igniter or electronic ignition energizes

4 – Within 20 seconds, the gas valve solenoid opens

5 – The gas should be ignited within approximately 4 seconds

6 - Flame sensor proves the flame and the combustion process continues uninterrupted

7 – If a flame is not detected after the first ignition trial, the ignition sequence will repeat 3-4 more times before locking out the gas valve.

8 – If the unit does not respond, it will automatically repeat the entire heating sequence. Some units will have to be manually reset

9 – Depending on the unit, a reset button can be depressed or the thermostat can be turned to “off”, then back to “heat”

 Many times we see these units go through the starting sequence a couple of times before they activate. I would make a note on my report that “The heating unit did respond to the thermostat, however it cycled twice before properly activating.” It would be a good idea to advise your client to have it evaluated by a heating contractor.

 Many high efficient units are not vented properly. Sometimes there seems to be some confusion related to this. Often times we see a new high efficient unit installed in place of an older low efficiency unit. What about the flue pipe lengths? What about lining the chimney? What about the size of vent pipes? How many other appliances can be connected with a high efficiency unit?  Here is what a home inspector should be looking for:

 

·       Metal flue pipes should be secured to the furnace collar with 3 self drilling sheet metal screws or a mechanical fastener

·       The first metal vent connector should not have an elbow within 6 inches from the unit

·       The vent pipe should be properly supported without any dips / sags and shall slope a minimum of ¼” per foot

·       High efficiency (direct vent) appliances should never be vented into a masonry chimney without a liner

·       Many manufacturers recommend a masonry chimney that is tile lined must be lined with B1 vent or a listed insulated flexible metal vent (check with manufacturer recommendations)

·       An exterior tile lined chimney that is sealed and capped should be lined with a listed flexible metal vent

·       Insulation for the flexible pipe should be an encapsulated fiberglass sleeve recommended by the flexible vent pipe manufacturer

·       Do not insulate the space between the liner and the chimney wall with puffed mica or any other loose granular insulation

·       For multiple appliances venting into one chimney refer to the chart above

·       A type B1 vent liner shall terminate above the roof surface with a listed cap

·       A manual damper, barometric draft damper / regulator, or flue restrictor should not be installed between the unit and the chimney. (This may exclude oil fuel burning units – refer to the manufacture)

·        A flue pipe should never share a chimney with a solid fuel appliance or wood burning fireplace

·       When the flue pipe for a high efficiency appliance must be located or pass through a crawl space, attic, or other areas that may be cold, that portion of pipe shall be constructed of double wall type B vent material or material having equivalent insulation qualities

·       No portion of the venting system can extend into, or pass through any circulation air duct or plenum

·       The vent connector should not be sized more than 2 size diameters over the size of the draft hood outlet or flue collar outlet

·       The maximum length of a flue pipe for a high efficient chimney vented appliances:

      3” connector diameter = 4.5 feet

      4” connector diameter = 6 feet

      5” connector diameter = 7.5 feet

      6” connector diameter = 9 feet

      7” connector diameter = 10.5 feet

Inspecting Through The Wall Thimbles & Flue Pipes

 

Inspecting Through The Wall Thimbles & Flue Pipes

 

I think every home inspector has seen a flue pipe from a wood stove or a gas unit penetrating a wall or ceiling and think; “that does not look safe.” Whether it is the pipe itself or clearances, I have outlined some guidelines that may assist you in the field. Although there are many codes and accepted standards this is a good rule of thumb. Through the wall thimbles should be used for all applications unless not required by the manufacture. Horizontal runs of vent pipe must be supported to prevent any downward sagging. If the wall being penetrated is constructed of noncombustible material only, i.e. masonry block, brick, or concrete only, a hole with zero clearance to the vent pipe is permissible if allowed by the appliance manufacturer. See the graphic for through the wall thimble locations. The vent should not run downward. A downward slope can trap heat and become a possible fire hazard. Listed below are some recommended clearances by one manufacture:

 

• Clearance above the ground, veranda, porch, deck, or balcony is 12 inches minimum or over the snow line.
• Clearance to a window (operable or fixed closed) or door is 12 inches minimum.
• Vertical clearance to a ventilated soffit located above the termination cap (if soffit extends a horizontal distance of 2 feet out over the centerline of the termination) is 18 inches minimum.
• Clearance to an unventilated soffit is12 inches minimum.
• The flue should not be installed above a gas meter/ regulator assembly within 3 feet horizontally from the centerline of the regulator.
• Clearance to a service regulator vent outlet is 6 feet minimum.
• Clearance to non-mechanical air supply inlet to a building or the combustion air inlet to any other appliance is 12 inches minimum.
• Clearance to a mechanical air supply inlet is 6 feet minimum. 
• Clearance under a veranda, porch, deck or balcony: 12 inches minimum.

 

In addition to the recommended clearances a home inspector should be looking for the following conditions:

 

• Fire stops are required at each floor / ceiling level.
• Twist lock connections do not require screws are not required to secure the joint, but are acceptable provided they do not penetrate the inner wall of the vent pipe.
• Horizontal pipe sections should be supported at least every 4 feet.
• Most vents do not require sealant, unless specifically required by manufacturer.
• The horizontal run of venting must be level, or have a 1/4-inch rise for every 1-foot of run towards the termination.
• The arrow on the vent cap should be pointing up
• The Vinyl Siding Standoff prevents excessive heat from potentially warping or melting the vinyl siding material and is required
• If a vent passes through any occupied areas above the first floor, including closets and storage spaces, it must be enclosed. The enclosure may be framed and dry walled / plastered with standard construction materials, but required clearances to combustibles must be maintained.
• Air spaces should not be filled with insulation.
• If a vent passes through an attic space, an attic insulation shield, or a chase enclosure, it must be installed to prevent contact between flue sections and the insulation or other debris.
• For vaulted ceilings a chase enclosure must be constructed for the flue to pass through
• The through the wall thimble should be centered through a square framed opening in wall /  ceiling

Audible Ground Fault Circuit Breakers

 

Audible Ground Fault Circuit Breakers

Audible Ground Fault Circuit Breakers provide multiple levels of protection and alerts for the home owner, and also the home inspector.  Once while inspecting a basement I tested a GFCI with my simple push button tester. It tripped and also tripped a duplex receptacle close to it. A basement freezer was plugged into that receptacle. I heard the freezer turn off when the GFCI tripped. I always reset the GFCI / AFCI receptacle or breaker and then test it again to ensure it is powered. After the inspection (my clients backed out of the transaction based on the home inspection), I received a call from the homeowner telling me that I tripped the GFCI to the freezer and all the meat spoiled. Fortunately the Realtor and my client provided statements that I did reset the GFCI and the freezer was operating when we left the basement. If that GFCI was an audible one, we would have “heard” if it properly reset. Audible GFCI’s automatically self tests to ensure there is power to the GFCI and there is not an issue with the power supply or wiring. They will also not function if improperly wired. Most also have a green light, which gives a visual indication that it is wired properly and has power. Another example is a sump pump. Many home inspectors do not recommend a sump pump is plugged into a GFCI protected circuit. However, an audio alarm will alert the homeowner that there is an issue. Just another way a home inspection is really and education about the house you are purchasing. So how should a home inspector inspect Audible GFCI’s:

 

• When power is interrupted the GFCI will sound an alarm
• A green status light should be visible. This indicates it is wired properly
• Copper or copper clad wiring should be used unless the receptacle is specifically approved for aluminum
• GFCI’s, even with audible alarms should not be used for any type of life support equipment
• GFCI’s installed in wet locations must be Listed and marked as Weather Resistant (WR)
• GFCI’s installed in wet locations should be protected with an approved cover plate or outlet box suitable for wet locations
• The plug face should not be exposed to the weather
• If the reset button will not reset that may indicate the outlet is improperly wired, there is no power, or the GFCI cannot pass its internal test
• Normally GFCI receptacles should not be installed in an electrical box containing more than 4 wires (not including grounds) or cables with more than 2 wires (not including the grounding wire). If these conditions exist, a qualified electrician should evaluate.
• If necessary you can silence the audible alarm by pressing and holding the reset button fully for 3 seconds. Contact an electrician if this happens.
• Any GFCI protected receptacle should have a sticker on it indicating such
• A flashing or solid red light indicates an issue with the GFCI and you should recommend a qualified electrician evaluate
• Recommend your client “test” the GFCI’s monthly by pressing the test & reset button

Inspecting Manufactured Homes

                                               Inspecting Manufactured Homes

Sometimes referred to mobile homes, manufactured homes have come a long way. When I first started my home inspection business and would get a call for a “mobile home” inspection, I would always think; “this is going to be interesting”. These should not be confused with modular construction. Modular construction consists of house components built in a factory with very close specifications. These panels or sections are trucked to the building site and placed on a foundation. Most manufactured homes are normally built in one or two pieces.  If the home was built prior to June 1976, there were no universal building standards required. From 1976 to 1994 manufactured homes were built to a single HUD standard. While better than homes built prior to 1976, there were still some issues with these homes. Since July 1994 every manufactured home has been required to comply with the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards or HUD Code. Part of this code was conformity with certain wind load zones. Any manufactured house I am hired to inspect built prior to June 1976 I warn the owner that it was probably built with no industry standards. I also let them know that homes built prior to July 1994 may also be substandard construction and have other issues that have been rectified since that time. Look for steel tags on the outside of the home that contain build information. What are some of the issues with manufactured homes that a home inspector should be looking for:

 

• Push on exterior walls to ensure they are solid. Movement in exterior walls may indicate rot at the floor or roof areas
• Look for spot spots in the floor
• Wavy floors / unleveled floors
• Sticking / damaged doors and windows
• Older mobile homes used a compressed fiberboard that would rot over time. Newer construction now employ ¾ inch water resistant plywood
• Polybutylene Pipe should be removed
• 100 amp electric service is recommended
• Water stains on the ceiling and walls (you should be able to walk most modern manufactured home roofs)
• Check underneath the home and ensure any pipes are insulated
• Insulation missing or hanging down
• Animal nests
• Foundation blocks should be plumb and not damaged
• The house should be properly attached to the foundation piers
• Deflection of the main beam
• Perimeter blocking normally used for additional support at larger openings greater than 4 feet should not be rotted or damaged
• The house should be properly anchored or strapped to the piers or foundation supports. Manufacturers have specific recommended anchors. Sidewall anchors are located on the long side of the house. End wall anchors are located on the short side of the home. Centerline anchors are located underneath the marriage walls of a double or triple wide home (see diagram).

What is Street Creep?

 

What Is Street Creep?

 

This is a term that I have never used in my home inspection reports. Because we are only inspecting one house and not an entire neighborhood; we would not necessarily be able to determine if the compromised foundation we are inspecting is limited to just that house. However we see many areas that are prone to foundation issues. I know every time I get a call for an inspection in one of these towns, I understand there is a chance there will be foundation issues. Again, we are only inspecting one house, so this term would probably not be put on a report. I had to do a little research on Street Creep

Street Creep, is a slang for movement, shift or expansion in concrete streets or sidewalks. Force or pressure, caused by expansive soils, heavy vehicles, and long term settlement, pushes the street or walkways against the driveway and possibly into the home's foundation producing serious cracks in foundation walls. This problem may be more significant on homes with concrete driveways and attached garages. Homes located at the end of "T" intersections, at the end of cul-de-sacs, and on the outside of a curve are especially susceptible to Street Creep damage. Homes built on hills are more susceptible to creep because gravity will induce paved streets and driveways to "slide" downhill.  Although this is a national problem, it is more prominent in wet areas and areas with expansive clay soils. Expansive soils expand significantly when saturated with water. This expansion is largely due to a chemical attraction of water molecules between layers of clay minerals called Smectites. Dry regions experience the downhill slide scenario. Typically, it is not as noticeable in regions without basements but it still occurs.

 The most common preventative fix for street creep is installing an expansion joint between the slabs to absorb the flex. Expansion joints, also called isolation joints, are used to relieve flex type stresses due to vertical movement of slab-on-grade applications. An expansion joint is simply a buffer made of a rubberized material inserted between two slabs of concrete. Properly installed, it will shrink and expand as the concrete moves, absorbing the pressure and stress of the movement before it starts cracking and shifting foundation walls. The driveway may already have an expansion joint but Street Creep may still occur if it not installed properly. Some individuals recommend installing a vertical flexible buffer joint in the foundation walls. So what are things a home inspector could look for:

• Take a screwdriver and try to tamp it down between the expansion joint and the concrete. You should be able to drive the screwdriver or knife blade down a good 4-5 inches. But, if you're hitting concrete at just 2 or 3 inches, the expansion joint is not installed properly.
• Most contractors will pour the entire driveway and then while the concrete is still wet insert the expansion joint material into the wet concrete. If the depth of the concrete exceeds the width of the expansion material, there can be inches of concrete beneath the expansion material that renders the expansion joint useless. When the slab expands it will push the concrete underneath the expansion material and could then push into foundation walls causing damage to the home.
•  Check expansion joints: If the joints seem unusually tight or compressed -- you might say, "squeezed" or "crushed" – there may be a problem.
•  Check garage floor / foundation walls: If there are cracks in the foundation, outside or in, or if the garage floor slab is pulling away from the garage wall (foundation) this may indicate an issue.
•  Remember, these are just possible indicators of Street Creep. If you see real concerns, note it in your report and refer a structural engineer or a professional foundation repair contractor to further evaluate. 

Inspecting Residential Entrance Ramps

 

Inspecting Residential Entrance Ramps

                                                                

I see many entrance ramps and often times my clients are planning on removing them. Every so often, they plan on keeping them in place. I inspect the physical condition of the materials, stability and visually look at the pitch. However, there are requirements that meld the building codes and ADA requirements. We see this also in other areas of the house. If the house is being build for ADA compliance, the codes may be altered to accommodate these requirements. The guidelines I will outline can also be modified to accommodate the individuals needs; however safety and egress requirements must be maintained. Remember, the remap will probably serve as a means of egress and these requirements also come in to play. The ADA requires a slope of 1:12. So basically if the door entrance threshold is 24 inches off of the ground, you would need a 24 foot long ramp. The maximum height of any section of ramp should not exceed 30 inches. If the height does exceed 30 inches a flat rest platform should be in place before the ramp continues. The minimum width of a ramp between hand railings should be 36 inches. Hand railings must be installed; therefore the deck of the ramp must be at least 42 inches wide to accommodate the width of the hand or guard rail. So what else should a home inspector be looking for when inspecting entrance ramps:

 

• Minimum door opening is 32 inches (clear width = measurement taken between the face of the door and the stop of the frame with the door open 90 degrees)  
• Handrails or guards must be installed if the ramp has a rise more than 6 inches or longer than 72 inches on both sides
• Tops of hand rails should be mounted between 34 & 38 inches above the ramp surface and continuous
• Spaces between the ramp and any wall or surface should be at least 1 ½ inches
• Ramps over 30 inches above ground should employ railings with spindles and a curb stop to ensure the wheels do not go over the sides of the ramp
• Curb guards or barriers shall be at least 4 inches high
• Maximum height of ramp should not exceed 30 inches per run
• There must be a flat landing at the top and bottom of all ramps
• Landings should be at least as wide as the ramp and a minimum of 60 inches by 60 inches
• The minimum headroom for all areas of the ramp must be at least 80 inches
• The floor or ground surface of the ramp run or landing shall extend 12 inches minimum beyond the inside face of a handrail
• Non-slip materials should be used for the ramp surface
• Ramps should be designed to ensure water does not accumulate on walking surfaces

Inspecting Synthetic / Composite Engineered Roof Coverings

            Inspecting Synthetic / Composite Engineered  Roof Coverings

 I’ll never forget the first time I saw a polymer slate roof covering. I first looked with my binoculars, as I always do before climbing. I was struck by the incredible condition of the “slate” tiles on this very old lake house. However when I went up the ladder, I discovered they were a rubberized material. Since then I have seen many. Although the materials used are very durable; it is the installation that can be problematic. There have been some manufactures that have had issues with their product materials in the past. Most of the newer products are very durable and if installed properly should have a long serviceable life. However it is important that other materials including flashing and fasteners are also durable. We normally refer to these coverings as just “composite” because of the many different materials used like: rubber, plastic, and other polymers. It is much more expensive than conventional roofing materials; however the serviceable life, if installed properly is longer. Composite roof coverings will tend to fade or oxidize over time. If you observe different colors / variations in different areas; that may mean that the shingle bundles were not mixed prior to installing. The installer should mix shingles from different bundles to ensure they are properly blended due to color variations. Special installation requirements are recommended for slopes of 2/12 or less. Composite shingles should not be installed on flat roof surfaces. I have outlined broad recommended guidelines. The specific manufacturer installation recommendations should always be referenced. What should a home inspector be looking for when inspecting composite roof shingles?

 

• Snow guard devices should be installed
• ½ Plywood is the minimum thickness required for 16” on center rafters, although 5/8” is recommended. 5/8-inch plywood is required for 20” rafter spacing or greater. OSB is not recommended.
• Minimum 1 ½ ” large head ring shanked roofing nails Stainless steel are recommended
• Nails must be fully covered by shingles and not visible in joints
• Where applicable, only a “pure silicon” sealant should be used to cover up exposed nail heads or to seal joints on ridge caps. The sealant should be color matched
• Every shingle should have 4 nails
• Every cap should have 2 screws
• It is important that the head of the nail not be driven below the top surface of the shake. This may cause leaks in this area.
• The joint between 2 shakes in one course should never be closer than 1 ½” to a joint below or above it.
• A Synthetic underlay is required. Ice / water shield may also be used
• The second course should be installed directly over the starter course, but should project a maximum 1/2" beyond the starter course (drip edge)
• The exposure should be less than 9 inches (7-7.5 normally). (This will vary depending on the shingle size and manufacture)
• A 24” wide W-flashing (heavy gauge) should be used in the valleys
• Stainless steel flashing is recommended

Inspecting Modern Flat / Low Slope Roof Coverings

 

Inspecting Modern Flat / Low Slope Roof Coverings

 When I first started conducting home inspections many of the flat or low slope roofs were covered with roll asphalt for residential applications or built up roofing for commercial. Although some people may still use roll roofing, and it may have its place; most modern flat roof coverings are made from newer, more durable, and more waterproof materials. Some of the materials that are commonly used for flat roofs are IRMA – Inverted Roof Membrane Assembly which is widely used for commercial applications. Normally you would not see this on a residence. IMRA incorporate insulation in the assembly and have a protective coating that may contain gravel. Modified / Polymer Bitumen which can be Atactic Polypropylene or Styrene Butadiene Styrene is a rubber like compound that is installed in sheets. Elastomeric or EPDM are sometimes called rubber roofing. PVC or plastic roofing materials are also available. These types of materials are most common for modern flat roofs. Some bitumen coverings may be prone to damage from the sun’s rays unless they are coated with ultraviolet protection. Bitumen materials can also be reinforced with fiberglass. Flat roof covering materials can be applied by heating (torch down), peel and stick, or glued down. It will be difficult for a home inspector to identify the different types and specific materials of bitumen. We normally refer to these types of coverings in our reports as a “Single Ply Membrane.” Here are some of the things home inspectors should be looking for when inspecting single ply membranes on flat roofs:

 

·       Seams facing the wrong direction which could cause water entry

·       Cracking or splits in the membrane

·       Blisters / wrinkling

·       Any areas that have been repaired or patched

·       Seams that are not overlapped at least 3 inches

·       Areas that have “bubbled” or are not properly attached to the substrate

·       Ponding / standing water

·       Any puncture or tear in the material

·       Side & end laps should be staggered

·       Flash points especially around air conditioning systems due to vibration

·       Flashing around parapets

·       Flashing around skylights

·       Flashing around any roof drains

·       Examine any drains that travel through the interior from underneath if possible

·       Ensure the water is draining properly including the drainage system / gutters

Revisiting Attached Garage Fire Separation

 

Revisiting Attached Garage Fire Separation

                                                             

Many home inspector training manuals and continuing education courses address the fire separation requirements between an attached garage and living space. Specifically; fire rated drywall, self closing fire rated door, and ensuring the garage is 4 inches below the living space (although this may be waived for ADA compliance). I have seen some inspectors call out a wood door.  Also any pilot / flame in the garage should be 18” above the floor. However fire separation requirements have been revised and expanded. For instance in the IRC – R302.6 states in part that fire rated gypsum board shall not apply to garage walls that are perpendicular to the adjacent dwelling unit. Also, any openings from a garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes are not permitted. Fire blocking is also required to eliminate concealed draft openings and to form a fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space. Fire blocking in wood framed construction should be in the following areas; in concealed stud spaces, vertically at the ceiling and floor, horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet, at connections of soffits, dropped ceilings, and cove ceilings. So where should a home inspector be looking for fire separation:

 

• Fire separation doors should be solid wood doors not less than 1 3/8” thick, solid or honeycomb core steel doors not less than 1 3/8” thick OR 20 minute fire rated doors
• Enclosed accessible space under stairs shall have walls, under stair surface and soffits protected with ½” gypsum board
• All doors should be equipped with a self closing device
• Ducts in the garage penetrating the walls or ceilings separating the dwelling from the garage should be a minimum of No. 26 gauge steel, 1 inch minimum rigid nonmetallic or other approved fire rated material
• No Duct openings are permitted in the garage
• Any openings around vents, pipes ducts, cables, or wires shall be sealed with approved material to resist the passage of flame, smoke, and products of combustion
• Wood Structural Panel floor structures shall be required to have a 5/8” gypsum wall board
• Wood floor assemblies using dimensional lumber equal to or greater than 2 inch by 10 inch or any other approved floor assemblies demonstrating equivalent fire performance do NOT need 5/8” gypsum wallboard (basements only)
• The annular space between the wall membrane and any electrical box shall not exceed 1/8”
• Two family dwellings should be separated from each other by wall and floor assemblies having not less than a 1 hour fire rating
• Two family dwellings equipped with an automatic sprinkler system should have a ½ hour wall and floor assembly separation 

Inspecting Modular Built Homes

 

Inspecting Modular Built Homes

Many people confuse modular homes with manufactured homes. Mobile or manufactured homes are built on steel frames called chassis and they cannot be removed. The chassis are used to support the homes and transport them to their permanent locations. These homes can either be placed in “parks” where other manufactured homes are also placed or be fixed on a permanent foundation, which may qualify them as traditional homes.

Modular homes are built in units that are joined together on-site and, unlike a manufactured home; they can be built as a multiple story house. Modular homes are built with wooden beams that use steel supports which make it possible for the modules to be stacked, allowing the homeowner to have a basement and multiple stories.

Modular homes are built with a process that involves the construction of components in a factory. It starts with a wood frame floor built to attach the wall panels later. The builders will then use fasteners to attach the wall panels. The window openings are already cut out before they are attached. As the structure is built, the drywall, ceilings, plumbing, and electrical wiring are installed under the close supervision of inspectors.

The roof is attached in one of two ways depending on the builder. Some manufacturers will build the roof and then set it on top of the walls. Other companies will send the roof separately and attach it on-site.

The final step is adding the exterior and interior finishes. The buyer can customize their own finishes such as the siding, the cabinets, flooring material, backsplash, vanities, countertops, and many other finishes.

The modular units, are usually shipped with a layer of plastic wrap suitable for transportation purposes only. Failure to erect these assemblies on a timely basis may result in serious weather damage and molded areas. Modular homes are inspected like a “stick built” house; however there are some areas that an inspector should pay close attention to:

- An energy seal should be installed by the factory around the perimeter of the marriage wall.

- To ensure an energy-efficient seal between the modules, a foam gasket or other sealant should be used for this insulating process.

- The perimeter rail of the structure is nailed to the sill plate with 16d nails @ 12” O.C. (For basement sets, all lally columns are located per the recommended schedule and lagged to marriage wall floor rails/girders with four 3/4” x 4” lags each one preferably into each rail. Additional columns are required under each side of marriage wall opening in excess of 52”.)

- The first two modules are bolted together, using 1/2” through-bolts.

- If the home is a two story, the rails of the first floor are bolted together with 1/2” bolts @ 4’ O.C.

- The third module should set on top of the first module, in the same manner as the first. The second floor rails should be fastened to the first floor ceiling rails with 16d nails @ 12” O.C.

- Spray foam is put in place around the marriage wall perimeter.

- Roof center beams must be nailed with a 16d nail @ 8” O.C. in height and 12” O.C. in length, staggered, after leveling the beams to each other.

-  Fire stop should be installed in chase areas to assure a maximum of eight feet of vertical distance.

- For an open roof system; fasten truss knee wall to ridge or rafters as per plans.

- Ensure floors are level and not damaged

- The center beams should be bolted together per specifications

- Check factory installed interior / exterior doors for proper working order.

- Drywall cracks, especially at marriage wall openings.

- Check the connection of water lines between modules

- Connection of electric panel to main service and between modules. There may be electrical connection junction boxes where the modules are joined

- Connection of hot water heater to main plumbing pipes.

- Connection of mechanical equipment, furnace, air conditioning, etc., to main systems.

- Ensure there is a bottom sheathing board that completely covers the sill plate

- Examine sheathing splice at marriage wall openings.

- Examine marriage wall doors and cased openings.