Dual Function Arc Fault / Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Breaker

Dual Function Arc Fault / Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Breaker

                                                                    

I have seen some disagreement between home inspectors and even electricians regarding the new requirements for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter protection. This is especially true when we throw Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters in the mix! We all know what each circuit breaker does. In a previous newsletter / blog I discuss the AFCI requirements in detail. Where are AFCI’s required and when should a combination AFCI / GFCI breaker be installed? Basically AFCI’s are required for all 120 volt circuits where a GFCI is not required. However….there are times that a combination AFCI / GFCI is recommended or required. First some basics. We know GFCI’s are required in bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchens (within 6 feet of a water source), and damp locations (basements, outside, garages, etc). They should also be installed protecting pools, spas, and hot tubs. AFCI’s and Dual Function AFCI / GFCI’s should be installed in the following locations:

·         AFCI’s should be installed for ALL 15 – 20 amp / 120 volt branch circuits protecting bedrooms, sleeping areas, living, dining, family rooms, dens, hallways, closets, kitchens, laundry areas, and baths not requiring a GFCI (wall receptacles more then 6 feet from a water source). Basically all 120 volt circuits.

·         AFCI protection is required for any circuit when adding, changing, replacing, or extending any branch circuit that requires AFCI protection

·         If a circuit is added, changed, replaced, or extended that required GFCI protection, a Dual Function ARCI / GFCI should be installed. This may include circuits that have been extended from a previous service panel that now serves as a junction box.

·         Newer type AFCI breakers / receptacles are compatible with household appliances including refrigerators

·         Average cost of a Dual Function AFCI / GFCI is $38.00

·         The lifespan of a AFCI circuit breaker is the same as a standard circuit breaker

Inspecting Flat Roof Coverings

                                         Inspecting Flat Roof Coverings 

Flat roof systems and coverings have evolved considerably over the years. I remember the time that rolled asphalt was used primarily for flat roof coverings. And many times that was installed incorrectly. As a home inspector, I see many flat roof coverings, even with acceptable materials installed improperly. First off, there should not be an actual “flat” roof structure. Roof structures should have some pitch. The structure should not be built with a 0/12 pitch. Keeping standing water off this type of roof is impossible even with proper drainage. Even the smallest leak will be disastrous. Low slope / flat roof structures should slope approximately ¼ inch per foot. Many inspectors refer to a low slope / flat roof structure as having a pitch of less that 4/12. Although some roof shingle manufactures will warranty their shingles (if certain underlayment is properly installed) on up to a 2/12 pitch roof. However, home inspectors will not know if the proper underlayment was installed correctly. Installing a low slope / flat roof covering is something all roofing companies say they do, however this installation involves using the proper materials with a high degree of skill. The requirements for low slope / flat roof coverings are different than a pitched roof. I normally recommend a single ply membrane.  Here are the trouble areas and what a home inspector should be looking for:

·         Ensure there is some degree of slope and proper drainage

·         If roof drains are employed closely check to ensure they are sealed

·         Look for the installation of a clamp ring drain that will seal better than a conventional drain

·         Roofing material should extend at least 8” up an joining wall or window sill

·         Roofing material should be installed 18-24” under shingles where a pitched roof joins a low slope. Ensure shingles are not installed to low and nailed into the membrane

·         Lifted or bubbles in the membrane

·         Repaired areas or tar

·         Metal flashing should be used for brick walls and be let into or cut into the mortar joint

·         Stucco / EIFS; metal flashing should be used under the lower drainage section

·         Roof drains should be avoided if possible and exterior gutters or scuppers should be installed. Proper flashing should extend from the roof covering into the scupper

·         Parapets should have roofing material installed over them and capped with a metal flashing

·         Skylights should be installed with the roofing material extending up the side and capped with a proper gasket or manufacture supplied flashing

·         Penetrations should have pre-formed flashing not tar

·         The leading edge should have roofing material under the drip edge and over the fascia. Drip edge would then be sealed with another piece of roof membrane over the top of the drip edge

·         Ensure there is not a raised edge at the leading edge that would cause water to  back up or not drain properly   

Kickout Flashing Requirements

Kickout Flashing Requirements

As home inspectors we understand the importance of kickout flashing. Many times this flashing is omitted, even on new builds. This is important for all siding materials but especially on stucco and EIFS. I have seen a considerable amount of damage on stucco  and EIFS siding because of missing kickout flashing. Having a gutter extended to the house in this area is not alone a solution. I have seen the roofer blame the siding company or vice versa. It is my opinion that the roofer should, as a matter of practice install kickout flashing in all areas where required. Remember kickout flashing, although not specifically named as such is required.  IRC Section R903.2.1 - Flashing – Locations, states: “Flashings shall be installed at wall and roof intersections, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. A flashing shall be installed to divert the water away from where the eave of a sloped roof intersects a vertical sidewall. Where flashing is of metal, the metal shall be corrosion resistant with a thickness on not less than 0.019 inch (0.5 mm) (No. 26 galvanized sheet)”. So what should a home inspector address this issue;

• Kickout flashing should be installed in all areas where the eave of a sloped roof intersects a vertical side wall
• Kickout flashing is not just required for stucco or EIFS, but for all siding materials
• Ensure to thoroughly inspect the interior areas where kickout flashing is either installed or omitted
• Ensure the kickout flashing is long enough to divert water properly away from the siding
• Ensure the kickout flashing is installed in a manner that does not allow water to enter the wall assembly
• Kickout flashing must be installed behind the siding and under the roof shingles
• Ensure the water is being diverted into a gutter or other area and not accumulating in the area where the roof intersects with the sidewall
• Kickout flashing must be corrosion resistant
• Ensure step flashing is installed in conjunction and incorporated with kickout flashing
• Recommend a qualified roofer install kickout flashing in all areas where required

National Electric Code 2020 Updates

National Electric Code 2020 Updates

The National Electric Code (NEC) is revised every 3 years. All 50 states utilize the code for their standards. I am going to outline the updates from the previous version. One of the changes I was glad to see is that service panels with 6 main disconnects are no longer permitted. I have long advised my clients to upgrade split panel service panels. Trying to explain how to disconnect the service and the fact that some breakers, many times 240 volt circuits actually cannot be disconnected. This makes the panel dangerous to work on. The homeowner’s are often confused on which breaker is actually the “main” when several breakers are either marked or look like a main service disconnect. Load calculations will also be reduced to account for higher efficiency appliances and lighting options. There has been a huge reduction in this area and many times a smaller service size (depending on the house) will be adequate. When I started performing home inspections the 240 volt appliances were 50-60 amps. Now those same appliances are 20-40 amps. Here are the other updates that a home inspector needs to know: 

• Outdoor Emergency Service Disconnects are now required for one and two family dwellings. This is to ensure first responders, especially fire fighters can disconnect the electric supply to the house
• Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) are now required on most 120 – 240 volt branch circuits. This includes clothes dryers, ranges, ovens, etc.
• Serge protection devices are required for all dwelling units. Many home inspectors recommend these are installed.
• Service panels with 6 main service disconnects are no longer permitted
• Line side barrier requirements are required and expanded to service beyond the main electric panels. (This is for shock protection. The barriers protect from energized conductors on the line terminals of the main over current protection device in a service panel) – Picture above
• Short Circuit Current Ratings connectors and devices must be marked suitable for use on the line side of the service equipment. We are seeing more of these devices as homeowners are looking for energy efficiency. – Picture above
• Temporary power equipment (we see this on new construction that is not complete) require markings for available fault current and date of calculation. For temporary over current devices between 150 volts to ground and 1000 volts phase to phase will be current limiting
• ARC reduction for services 1200 amps and greater must ensure arcing currents activate ARC reduction technology.

Receptacles in Areas That Are Damp or Wet

Receptacles in Areas That Are Damp or Wet

 

As home inspectors we always recommend Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) receptacles are installed in wet or damp areas. We should also be looking at the cover on the receptacle; there is a difference. There is also a difference, by definition of a “wet” or “damp” area. A wet area is defined as being exposed to large amounts of water (on an exterior wall not protected by a roof, near a pool or hot tub). A damp area is defined as being exposed to small amounts of liquid (basement, crawl space, under an awning). Receptacles located in wet areas should have a cover that is weatherproof when a plug is in it. Receptacles located in damp areas should have a cover that is weatherproof when a plug is not in it. They have a cap that covers the receptacle. As earlier stated they will be either GFCI or AFCI protected. So what should a home inspector be looking for:

·         Loose or damaged receptacles

·         Protective cover is damaged, loose or missing

·         Gap between receptacle and protective cover plate

·         Incorrect ampacity

·         Improperly wired

·         Unapproved exterior wiring used

·         Open ground / reversed polarity

·         Scorching

·         Serviced by an extension cord, drop cord, or other unapproved wiring methods

·         Unsafe location

·         240 Volt circuit not supplied by a 4 conductors

Notched Studs & Top Plates

Notched Studs & Top Plates

Home inspectors always report on floor joists and beams / girders where they have been compromised by drilling holes and notching. Many times these structural members are easy to see in a basement or crawl space. We see the damage caused by compromised structural members. Settled floors, walls, and sticking windows & doors. Most times during a visual home inspection wall studs and top plates are not able to see. However many of us offer new construction inspections. It is amazing to me the amount of corners cut during new construction. Once covered with drywall, it will be near impossible to determine defects. Movement or bulges in walls may be related to compromised studs or top plates. Cracks on drywall, especially corner angled cracks. This may be even more problematic with balloon frame construction. If a home inspector sees movement in a wall, especially if it is weight bearing, it may be caused by improperly drilled or notched wall studs or top plates. So what should a home inspector be looking for?

• If a top plate is notched more than 50%, a 16 gauge metal plate should be installed
• Top plate joints should be offset at least 24” and overlapped at the corners
• Notches in wall studs that are load bearing should not exceed 25% of the stud depth (actual)
• Notches in wall studs that are not load bearing may not exceed 40% of the stud depth (actual)
• Holes in wall studs in load bearing walls may not exceed 40% of the stud depth (actual)
• Holes in wall studs in non load bearing walls may not exceed 60% of the stud depth (actual)
• 2 x 4 load bearing studs less than 10’ which support 1 story and a roof, may be spaced 24” on center
• 2 x 4 load bearing studs less than 10’ which support 2 stories and a roof, should be 16” on center
• 2 x 6 studs should be used by walls higher than 10’ (check with the local municipality)
• Exterior wall sill plate should be pressure treated with a moisture barrier
• Walls should normally have a double top plate
• #3 grade lumber is approved for studs up to 10’
• #2 grade lumber is approved for studs longer than 10’
• Structural composite lumber is approved for wall studs

Are Fire Sprinklers Required Everywhere?

Are Fire Sprinklers Required Everywhere?

As the debate continues for the use and implementation of fire sprinkler systems, there are some things that home inspectors should know. Currently only the entire state of California require sprinkler systems in all single family and larger residences. Many individual municipalities are requiring residential sprinkler systems. Multiple units and commercial buildings already have the requirement in place in most areas. Some materials approved are steel pipe, black iron, PEX, copper, and CPVC (orange in color). I see mostly orange CPVC. Probably due to cost and ease of installation, however there are some issues associated with its use. Some products may degrade CPVC and must be considered before employing it. Some types of caulk, fire stopping products, mold / antimicrobial products, certain types of pipe tape, certain thread sealants, some leak detector fluids, coated pipe hangers, and one type of waterproofing. Any of these products may degrade CPVC and should not come in contact with it. Fire sprinkler pipes need to be secured to ensure they do not uplift under pressure. Where are the areas that fire sprinklers are not required according to NFPA 13 – 903.3.1.1.1 & 2;

903.3.1.1.1 Exempt Locations

Automatic sprinklers shall not be required in the following rooms or areas where such rooms or areas are protected with an approved automatic fire detection system in accordance with Section 907.2 that will respond to visible or invisible particles of combustion. Sprinklers shall not be omitted from a room merely because it is damp, of fire-resistance-rated construction or contains electrical equipment. 

1.                      A room where the application of water, or flame and water, constitutes a serious life or fire hazard. 

2.                      A room or space where sprinklers are considered undesirable because of the nature of the contents, where approved by the fire code official. 

3.                      Generator and transformer rooms separated from the remainder of the building by wallsand floor/ceiling or roof/ceiling assemblies having a fire-resistance rating of not less than 2 hours.

4.                      Rooms or areas that are of noncombustible construction with wholly noncombustible contents.

5.                      Fire service access elevator machine rooms and machinery spaces.

6.                      Machine rooms, machinery spaces, control rooms and control spaces associated with occupant evacuation elevators designed in accordance with Section 3008.

903.3.1.1.2 Bathrooms

In Group R occupancies, other than Group R-4occupancies, sprinklers shall not be required in bathrooms that do not exceed 55 square feet (5 m²) in area and are located within individual dwelling units or sleeping units, provided that walls and ceilings, including the wallsand ceilings behind a shower enclosure or tub, are of noncombustible or limited-combustible materials with a 15-minute thermal barrier rating.

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The Importance of Rake & Drip Edge

The Importance of Rake & Drip Edge

Many homes that I have inspected lack Rake / Drip edge. As a renovator, I have seen the damage caused by missing rake / drip edge. Whenever we stripped an asphalt roof covering, there was always moisture damage to the decking approximately 1 foot out from the edge when rake / drip was missing. This is caused by either water being driven under the shingle or by the water tracking under the shingle and on the roof deck. Some roofers who opt not to use rake / drip edge justify it by extending the shingles at least 2 inches past the leading edge of the deck. I always recommend to my clients that it is installed. It is very frustrating when seeing a new roof covering without rake / drip edge. Do we note satisfactory? I don’t because I feel that the roof may leak or deteriorate because of this missing flashing. Rake / drip edge is flashing. If flashing were missing anywhere else, we would consider it a major defect. In 2012 the International Residential Code (IRC) requires that rake and drip edge shall be provided at eaves and rake edges of single roofs. It also must be installed properly in order for the intended purpose. Here is what a home inspector should be looking for:

• Rake / Drip edge shall be overlapped at least 2 inches
• Rake / Drip edge shall extend not less than ¼ inch below the roof sheathing
• Rake / Drip edge shall extend back onto the roof deck not less than 2 inches
• Rake / Drip edge shall be mechanically fastened to the roof deck at not more than 12 inches on center
• Rake / Drip edge shall be fastened with a minimum 12 gauge shank and 3/8” diameter head
• Underlayment shall be installed over the drip edge along the eaves and under the drip edge along the rakes
• Rake / Drip edge should be corrosion resistant
• Rake edge should be installed along the eave from the bottom upward. The top sections should overlap the bottom section to prevent water getting in at the joints

Proper Air Sealing & Moisture Control

Some home inspectors also perform Energy Star ratings or Energy Score evaluations. Some states are requiring more than just Energy Star. They are adopting a score evaluation for all homes. Soon these “scores” will be part of the properties profile, and used when the house is listed for sale. Most home inspectors do not do this type of testing which is above the requirements of a visual home inspection. However air loss and moisture intrusion can become a very important part of a home inspection. Moisture entering a house, whether as a leak or because of condensation creates issues that are detrimental to the building. Mold, wet / dry rot, Sick Building Syndrome, and other serious issues can occur. We are starting to see this in newer homes as we do with homes constructed in the 70’s and 80’s. These homes are designed to be “tight” and energy efficient. Many older homes do not experience these types of moisture issues because of the air loss resulting in the areas in question drying out before the moisture becomes a problem. It is not trapped and air (leaks) will dry it out. There are issues that we may not be able to see during a visual home inspection. Some of these are: air barrier, which should be continuous, insulation installed properly, vapor barrier in the proper place / orientation, flashing, etc. So many things that effect air sealing / loss and moisture intrusion that we cannot see. Energy Star has a checklist that inspectors use when performing an inspection. This is also good information for a home inspector. You can find this list by clicking on this link: CLICK HERE

Without being able to see some of the areas where these problems may have originated, what can a home inspector look for:

• Garage band joist
• Floor above garage
• Attic knee walls
• Skylight shaft walls
• Wall adjoining porch roof
• Basement / crawl space band joists
• Crawl space walls (foam is the best choice for this application)
• Slab – edge insulation
• Look for thermal bridging in attic space
• Insulation should not have gaps
• Cantilevered areas are properly insulated with vapor barrier
• At least a 6 mil vapor barrier on dirt craw space floors
• Openings to unconditioned spaces are fully sealed
• Attic access panel is insulated
• Attic drop down stairs are fully insulated
• Recessed lighting properly sealed (must be IC rated)
• Whole house fan cover is insulated
• Common wall between dwelling units is insulated and fire rated
• Pipe / shaft penetrations are properly sealed (fire caulk / sealant if necessary)

Inspecting Single Ply Beams

Inspecting Single Ply Beams

Although a visual home inspection is not a code or engineering inspection, many home inspectors would require that beams and wood support members are multi-ply or built up beams. Commonly 2 – 2 by’s and a ½” piece of plywood sandwiched in the middle. Single ply beams would not be appropriate for door and window headers, or for spans supporting a second story or roof structure. Currently single ply beams are only acceptable for decks, porches and landings where no additional support is required. In the 2018 IRC, there is now a span table specifically for decks (Deck Beam Span Length’s for Single Ply Beams), the table is above. The table specifically addresses 2x6 – 2x12 single ply beams for deck joist spans. Using the table we can see a single ply 4’ 11” 2x6 can support spans up to 6’. A single ply 5’1”  2x8 can support spans of up to 8’. So what should a home inspector look for:

·         These spans also apply to stair landings not supporting a second floor or roof structure

·         This table applies to decks / porches and landings not supporting a second story

·         Roof structures that are being supported by a deck will require a larger beam / support member

·         Single ply beams are used for small spans

·         It is acceptable to use a single-ply beam in place of multi-ply beams as long as the size is appropriate

·         Single ply beams can be used for space requirements are an issue

·         Single ply beams will also save money

Masonry Fireplace Inspection

Masonry Fireplace Inspection

Many real estate listings when describing the fireplace put an acronym: NRTC (Not Represented To Code). The reason for this is that wood burning fireplaces are not technically “grandfathered” in many areas. So if a chimney or other fire occurs, it may not be covered by insurance. Some home inspectors are certified for fireplace inspections. Many are not, however I am always asked by my clients; “can I burn wood in it?”  I know many home inspectors inform their client that the fireplace inspection is based on “component” condition, not on functionality. Although this is the correct answer, it does not answer the question they asked. There are things we can look for that will indicate if the unit should be safe for operation. Even if this is the case, if your client is planning on using the fireplace for wood burning, it would be advantageous for them to get something in writing from a certified fireplace inspector. This documentation may be necessary for insurance purposes. Here is what a home inspector should look for regarding masonry fireplaces:

·         The fireplace hearth should also be masonry and be at least 4 inches thick and 20 inches deep.

·         Any hearth extension should be masonry and  be at leas t 2 inches thick, extend at least 16” in front, and 8” to each side of the fireplace opening if the fireplace has an area of less than 6 square feet

·         If the area of the firebox is more than 6 square feet, the hearth extension should extend at least 20” in front and 12” to each side of the fireplace opening

·         There should not be a gap between the hearth and the hearth extension

·         No combustible materials should be below the hearth extension

·         Firebox masonry walls should be at least 8 inches thick and lined with 2” firebrick. If firebrick is not used the masonry walls should be 10” thick

·         The bricks / masonry should not be cracked or damaged. Mortar joints should be in good condition with no gaps

·         Mortar joints should be no larger than  ¼ “ thick

·         Steel fireboxes should not be damaged or separated in any areas

·         Look for metal tags on newer units, indicating code compliance and proper clearances

·         If a lintel is installed over the firebox, it should be in good condition and extend approximately 4 inches on each side

·         The damper should operate freely and close / open completely

·         Use caution and open first before looking up the flue pipe

·         Extreme caution should be used when opening a damper that is located at the chimney top. I do not recommend pulling the chain on these types of dampers.

·         The firebox surround should also be constructed of non-combustible material (brick, tile, slate, concrete, etc..)

·         Look for an ash clean-out door within 6 inches of the flue base

Inspecting Pushmatic Circuit Breakers

Inspecting Pushmatic Circuit Breakers

Pushmatic circuit breakers were introduced to the market in the 1950’s. The original Pushmatic breakers were manufactured until the late 1960’s. The Pushmatic breakers are more of a large “button” style instead of the more modern handle style circuit breakers.  Before we address the actual inspection of Pushmatic breakers, let’s examine the way the Pushmatic operates and is constructed. Modern circuit breakers utilize a combination of a magnetic and thermal mechanism to interrupt the circuit. This is a “belt & suspender” fail safe for the circuit. Early Pushmatic breakers only had a thermal mechanism, providing only one method to interrupt the circuit. I am unaware of any fires caused by these early breakers. When inspecting an electric panel employing Pushmatic circuit breakers, here are some of the items we should be looking for:

In addition to everything else we look for in an electric panel, pay close attention to the position of the Pushmatic breaker. Pushmatic breakers are bolted into the Main Service Panel not “snapped in” like modern lever type breakers. Visually ensure that the breaker is not loose and pushed completely down (if in the on position) or is completely up (if in the off position). The early Pushmatic breakers may not be fully engaged because they were lubricated and may be difficult to operate after several years. If you look at the breaker when it is in the on position or pushed fully down, you will see word “on”. If disengaged, or if the breaker is in the up position, the words “off” will be visible. One of the other problems with the early Pushmatic breakers is that they became stuck between off and on. This would pose a quandary and safety issue for the homeowner or electrician working on a circuit. Another problem experienced by the early Pushmatic’s is the ability to reset. The breaker will not stay down or in the “on” position. If you see any of these issues, the breaker should be replaced. Always recommend a qualified electrician evaluate and upgrade as necessary. Newer Pushmatic replacements do not have these problems and are safe. It also should be noted that replacement Pushmatic breakers must be properly matched for the electric panel. Not all replacements will fit all panels.  Newer Pushmatic replacements are quite expensive and it may be wise recommending that your client upgrade the Main Service Panel with new modern style circuit breakers.

Inspecting Expansion Tanks on Hot Water Tanks

Inspecting Expansion Tanks on Hot Water Tanks

Most of the newer hot water tanks I see have expansion tanks installed. In past years it was rare to see one on a residential hot water tank. This Tech Tip will outline the reasons for installing an expansion tank, how to properly install one, and finally how to inspect them. Expansion tanks are being installed and in some instances required on hot water tanks because many municipalities are now installing back flow preventer valves after (house side) the main shut-off valve. Back flow valves prevent house water from backing up into the municipal water supply, possibly contaminating it. There may also be a pressure reducing valve installed. This valve will act as a back flow valve because it is a one way valve. Water expands 2% or more in a hot water tank when heated. If the pressure inside the tank does not exceed the capacity of the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve (PTRV), water will be backed up into the water supply pipe possibly contaminating the fresh water supply. A back flow preventer valve will not allow this to happen. This however will cause considerable pressure in the hot water tank and water pipe. The expansion tank will absorb the water and reduce the pressure in the tank and water line. It will also ensure the PTRV does not continually open when this condition is present. Also, if the water pressure coming into the house is near 80 PSI, an expansion tank will protect the tank and water pipes from excessive pressure. It will also prevent the PTRV from opening. When inspecting a hot water tank, here are some tips;

·         If a back flow preventer valve, or pressure reducing valve is installed, ensure an expansion tank is installed

·         If the water pressure to the house is near 80 PSI an expansion tank should be installed

·         The preferred method of installation is to install the expansion tank vertically, however it can be installed horizontally (see drawing)

·         The house water supply should be distributed, if possible, before the expansion tank

·         The expansion tank should be installed on the cold water supply pipe

·         Ensure the expansion tank and connections are not leaking

·         Ensure the expansion tank is properly supported, especially if installed

INSPECTING CSST - Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing

INSPECTING CSST -  Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing or CSST is not a new product. It has been used in the US for more than 20 years and there are more than 750 million feet installed since then. It is not the flexible stainless steel pipe used for ranges or clothes dryers. It should not be directly connected to these appliances. It can be connected to black iron pipe. CSST can be identified by its yellow or black exterior jacket and corrugated look. CSST has been approved for gas service by the Uniform Plumbing Code, International Fuel Gas Code, and all 50 States. CSST should be installed by a qualified trained installer. All holes bored in structural members should be in accordance with local building requirements. When inspecting CSST; we should look for the following:

-          If installed through masonry, it must be routed in conduit that is ½ inch larger than the OD of the CSST. The conduit must maintain a continuous watertight barrier between the masonry and CSST.

-          CSST must be bonded to the electric service grounding with at least a number 6 AWG copper wire or equivalent.

-          Concealed CSST should be protected from puncture using striker plates at all points of penetration through studs, joists, etc.

-          All points of penetration less than 2 inches from any edge of a stud, joist, plate, etc. should be protected by a striker plate to provide protection at the area of support and within 5 inches of each side of the support.

-          A striker plate should be installed at points of penetration 2-3 inches from any edge of a stud, joist, or plate.

-          Points of penetration greater than 3 inches from the edge of a stud or joist do not require protection.

-          CSST traveling horizontally through studs shall be protected from puncture between the studs using shielding devices

-          The width of protection striker plates at the penetration points through wall studs, floor joists, sills, etc., should be at least 1.5 times the outside diameter of the tubing.  

-          Open ends of CSST should be plugged or taped closed during installation to prevent dirt or debris to enter.

-          The protective yellow jacket should be kept in place as much as possible to protect the tubing from corrosive threats.

-          Installation clearance holes for routing CSST are to be ½ inch greater than the O.D. of the CSST.

-          CSST should be supported with pipe straps, bands, or hangers every 4’ for 3/8”, 6’ for ½”, 8’ for ¾”.

-          CSST should be installed without any sharp bends, kinks, stretching, kinking, or twisting.

-          CSST should not be connected to any moveable appliances

-          CSST should not be buried or embedded in the ground or concrete, or installed along the outside a structure unless it is routed inside a non-metallic watertight conduit that has an outside diameter at least ½” greater than the O.D. of the CSST. The conduit should be properly sealed to prevent water from entering.

-          CSST should not be used to support a gas meter

-          Where a hole is bored in a joist, the hole should be in the centerline, otherwise no closer than 2” from the nearest edge of the joist.

-          When CSST passes through metal members it must be protected by grommets, bushings, armor, PVC tape, shrink sleeve material, or a minimum of four wraps of #10 Mil duct tape to ensure there is no physical damage to the CSST.

-          CSST should not be installed in notches cut in either the top or bottom of joists

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors should be installed in every home. Most home inspectors (and many municipalities) recommend smoke detectors on every level of the living space, in all hallways, common areas and every bedroom.

Carbon monoxide detectors should be on every level of the house. Some municipalities do not allow plug in type Carbon Monoxide detectors. Electric interconnected with battery back-up dual units are a great choice for your clients.