Masonry Fireplace Inspection

Masonry Fireplace Inspection

Many real estate listings when describing the fireplace put an acronym: NRTC (Not Represented To Code). The reason for this is that wood burning fireplaces are not technically “grandfathered” in many areas. So if a chimney or other fire occurs, it may not be covered by insurance. Some home inspectors are certified for fireplace inspections. Many are not, however I am always asked by my clients; “can I burn wood in it?”  I know many home inspectors inform their client that the fireplace inspection is based on “component” condition, not on functionality. Although this is the correct answer, it does not answer the question they asked. There are things we can look for that will indicate if the unit should be safe for operation. Even if this is the case, if your client is planning on using the fireplace for wood burning, it would be advantageous for them to get something in writing from a certified fireplace inspector. This documentation may be necessary for insurance purposes. Here is what a home inspector should look for regarding masonry fireplaces:

·         The fireplace hearth should also be masonry and be at least 4 inches thick and 20 inches deep.

·         Any hearth extension should be masonry and  be at leas t 2 inches thick, extend at least 16” in front, and 8” to each side of the fireplace opening if the fireplace has an area of less than 6 square feet

·         If the area of the firebox is more than 6 square feet, the hearth extension should extend at least 20” in front and 12” to each side of the fireplace opening

·         There should not be a gap between the hearth and the hearth extension

·         No combustible materials should be below the hearth extension

·         Firebox masonry walls should be at least 8 inches thick and lined with 2” firebrick. If firebrick is not used the masonry walls should be 10” thick

·         The bricks / masonry should not be cracked or damaged. Mortar joints should be in good condition with no gaps

·         Mortar joints should be no larger than  ¼ “ thick

·         Steel fireboxes should not be damaged or separated in any areas

·         Look for metal tags on newer units, indicating code compliance and proper clearances

·         If a lintel is installed over the firebox, it should be in good condition and extend approximately 4 inches on each side

·         The damper should operate freely and close / open completely

·         Use caution and open first before looking up the flue pipe

·         Extreme caution should be used when opening a damper that is located at the chimney top. I do not recommend pulling the chain on these types of dampers.

·         The firebox surround should also be constructed of non-combustible material (brick, tile, slate, concrete, etc..)

·         Look for an ash clean-out door within 6 inches of the flue base

Inspecting Pushmatic Circuit Breakers

Inspecting Pushmatic Circuit Breakers

Pushmatic circuit breakers were introduced to the market in the 1950’s. The original Pushmatic breakers were manufactured until the late 1960’s. The Pushmatic breakers are more of a large “button” style instead of the more modern handle style circuit breakers.  Before we address the actual inspection of Pushmatic breakers, let’s examine the way the Pushmatic operates and is constructed. Modern circuit breakers utilize a combination of a magnetic and thermal mechanism to interrupt the circuit. This is a “belt & suspender” fail safe for the circuit. Early Pushmatic breakers only had a thermal mechanism, providing only one method to interrupt the circuit. I am unaware of any fires caused by these early breakers. When inspecting an electric panel employing Pushmatic circuit breakers, here are some of the items we should be looking for:

In addition to everything else we look for in an electric panel, pay close attention to the position of the Pushmatic breaker. Pushmatic breakers are bolted into the Main Service Panel not “snapped in” like modern lever type breakers. Visually ensure that the breaker is not loose and pushed completely down (if in the on position) or is completely up (if in the off position). The early Pushmatic breakers may not be fully engaged because they were lubricated and may be difficult to operate after several years. If you look at the breaker when it is in the on position or pushed fully down, you will see word “on”. If disengaged, or if the breaker is in the up position, the words “off” will be visible. One of the other problems with the early Pushmatic breakers is that they became stuck between off and on. This would pose a quandary and safety issue for the homeowner or electrician working on a circuit. Another problem experienced by the early Pushmatic’s is the ability to reset. The breaker will not stay down or in the “on” position. If you see any of these issues, the breaker should be replaced. Always recommend a qualified electrician evaluate and upgrade as necessary. Newer Pushmatic replacements do not have these problems and are safe. It also should be noted that replacement Pushmatic breakers must be properly matched for the electric panel. Not all replacements will fit all panels.  Newer Pushmatic replacements are quite expensive and it may be wise recommending that your client upgrade the Main Service Panel with new modern style circuit breakers.

Inspecting Expansion Tanks on Hot Water Tanks

Inspecting Expansion Tanks on Hot Water Tanks

Most of the newer hot water tanks I see have expansion tanks installed. In past years it was rare to see one on a residential hot water tank. This Tech Tip will outline the reasons for installing an expansion tank, how to properly install one, and finally how to inspect them. Expansion tanks are being installed and in some instances required on hot water tanks because many municipalities are now installing back flow preventer valves after (house side) the main shut-off valve. Back flow valves prevent house water from backing up into the municipal water supply, possibly contaminating it. There may also be a pressure reducing valve installed. This valve will act as a back flow valve because it is a one way valve. Water expands 2% or more in a hot water tank when heated. If the pressure inside the tank does not exceed the capacity of the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve (PTRV), water will be backed up into the water supply pipe possibly contaminating the fresh water supply. A back flow preventer valve will not allow this to happen. This however will cause considerable pressure in the hot water tank and water pipe. The expansion tank will absorb the water and reduce the pressure in the tank and water line. It will also ensure the PTRV does not continually open when this condition is present. Also, if the water pressure coming into the house is near 80 PSI, an expansion tank will protect the tank and water pipes from excessive pressure. It will also prevent the PTRV from opening. When inspecting a hot water tank, here are some tips;

·         If a back flow preventer valve, or pressure reducing valve is installed, ensure an expansion tank is installed

·         If the water pressure to the house is near 80 PSI an expansion tank should be installed

·         The preferred method of installation is to install the expansion tank vertically, however it can be installed horizontally (see drawing)

·         The house water supply should be distributed, if possible, before the expansion tank

·         The expansion tank should be installed on the cold water supply pipe

·         Ensure the expansion tank and connections are not leaking

·         Ensure the expansion tank is properly supported, especially if installed

INSPECTING CSST - Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing

INSPECTING CSST -  Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing or CSST is not a new product. It has been used in the US for more than 20 years and there are more than 750 million feet installed since then. It is not the flexible stainless steel pipe used for ranges or clothes dryers. It should not be directly connected to these appliances. It can be connected to black iron pipe. CSST can be identified by its yellow or black exterior jacket and corrugated look. CSST has been approved for gas service by the Uniform Plumbing Code, International Fuel Gas Code, and all 50 States. CSST should be installed by a qualified trained installer. All holes bored in structural members should be in accordance with local building requirements. When inspecting CSST; we should look for the following:

-          If installed through masonry, it must be routed in conduit that is ½ inch larger than the OD of the CSST. The conduit must maintain a continuous watertight barrier between the masonry and CSST.

-          CSST must be bonded to the electric service grounding with at least a number 6 AWG copper wire or equivalent.

-          Concealed CSST should be protected from puncture using striker plates at all points of penetration through studs, joists, etc.

-          All points of penetration less than 2 inches from any edge of a stud, joist, plate, etc. should be protected by a striker plate to provide protection at the area of support and within 5 inches of each side of the support.

-          A striker plate should be installed at points of penetration 2-3 inches from any edge of a stud, joist, or plate.

-          Points of penetration greater than 3 inches from the edge of a stud or joist do not require protection.

-          CSST traveling horizontally through studs shall be protected from puncture between the studs using shielding devices

-          The width of protection striker plates at the penetration points through wall studs, floor joists, sills, etc., should be at least 1.5 times the outside diameter of the tubing.  

-          Open ends of CSST should be plugged or taped closed during installation to prevent dirt or debris to enter.

-          The protective yellow jacket should be kept in place as much as possible to protect the tubing from corrosive threats.

-          Installation clearance holes for routing CSST are to be ½ inch greater than the O.D. of the CSST.

-          CSST should be supported with pipe straps, bands, or hangers every 4’ for 3/8”, 6’ for ½”, 8’ for ¾”.

-          CSST should be installed without any sharp bends, kinks, stretching, kinking, or twisting.

-          CSST should not be connected to any moveable appliances

-          CSST should not be buried or embedded in the ground or concrete, or installed along the outside a structure unless it is routed inside a non-metallic watertight conduit that has an outside diameter at least ½” greater than the O.D. of the CSST. The conduit should be properly sealed to prevent water from entering.

-          CSST should not be used to support a gas meter

-          Where a hole is bored in a joist, the hole should be in the centerline, otherwise no closer than 2” from the nearest edge of the joist.

-          When CSST passes through metal members it must be protected by grommets, bushings, armor, PVC tape, shrink sleeve material, or a minimum of four wraps of #10 Mil duct tape to ensure there is no physical damage to the CSST.

-          CSST should not be installed in notches cut in either the top or bottom of joists

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors should be installed in every home. Most home inspectors (and many municipalities) recommend smoke detectors on every level of the living space, in all hallways, common areas and every bedroom.

Carbon monoxide detectors should be on every level of the house. Some municipalities do not allow plug in type Carbon Monoxide detectors. Electric interconnected with battery back-up dual units are a great choice for your clients.

Electric Receptacle Placement

Electric Receptacle Placement

Of course you put a tester in the receptacles during the inspection. We are going to look at receptacles a little differently.  The most common types of branch circuits are; General Purpose (15 or 20 amp, lighting, and general purpose receptacles), Small Appliance Circuits (usually 20 amp, found in kitchens and other areas where small appliances are located), Individual Circuits (Supply a single appliance or receptacle, normally 20 amps and more). 240 Volt circuits should be on their own circuit.

Common duplex receptacles have two outlets and  are connected by a metal tab. If this tab is removed, each outlet can be wired to a separate circuit. A 20 amp receptacle has a horizontal slot connected to the vertical slot on the neutral side. I often wonder why someone would run #12 AWG and install a 15 amp receptacle. When conducting a home inspection, receptacle placement is something we should be looking for. Not for code compliance, or home inspection standards, but for our clients convenience. If there is one receptacle in a room, we would recommend adding additional receptacles, a pull chain in the center of a room would warrant a wall switch. Receptacle placement may also indicate if a qualified electrician wired the house or not.  For our clients convenience, and in my opinion, a good quality inspection, we should look for the following:

•   A receptacle outlet must be installed so that no point along the wall space will be more than 6 feet horizontally from another receptacle. This is to ensure that a 6 foot cord will reach the receptacle, so an extension is not needed.

•   Wall sections, fixed exterior glass panels, counters and railings that are at least 2 feet long and uninterrupted along the floor by doors, openings, or fireplaces. Sliding portions of glass doors on exterior walls are not considered wall space.

•   Receptacles in rooms should be located 12-16 inches from the floor (switches should be 46-48 inches from the floor).

•   Two or more small appliance circuits of at least 20 amperes are required in all kitchens. These circuits must be dedicated and therefore not connected to any other circuit.

•   In kitchens, a receptacle must be installed at each wall counter space 12 inches or wider. Receptacles must be installed no further than 24 inches apart measured horizontally, this means the first receptacle must be located not more than 24 inches from the edge of the counter space, and the next receptacle can be no more than 48 inches from the first one.

Lighting in closets are not required, but many homes do have lights in closets. We should be looking for the following;

•   Exposed light bulbs are not acceptable in closets

•   Totally enclosed incandescent fixtures must be a minimum distance of 12 inches from the storage space and surface mounted fluorescent fixtures must be a minimum distance of 6 inches from the storage space.

•   Completely enclosed recessed fluorescent fixtures must be at least 6 inches from the storage area

Window Leaks

Window Leaks

As you can see by the above photo, this new window was installed incorrectly. In addition to not being square and plumb in the frame, there is no flashing. Some contractors thing that flashing is only for roof penetrations. As home inspectors we know that any penetration or attachment for that matter should be flashed. That includes all windows, doors, and attached decks / porches. The problem with the window in the photo is that not only will it leak air; it will also leak water, and cause moisture and condensation to accumulate inside the house and on the plywood exterior sheeting. Eventually the wood members around the window will deteriorate and cause structural damage. If we are conducting an inspection before the siding is installed, we would be able to easily evaluate the lack of flashing and inform our client. But as we know, we are normally inspecting the house after the siding and drywall has been installed. So what are some of the things we can look for to help us determine if the windows were properly installed:

When viewing the windows form the outside carefully observe the sidewalls of the house. Any movement or bowing around window openings, especially large units, may indicate the structural members have deteriorated or weakened. All windows and doors should have drip caps installed on top. This metal flashing will ensure water does not get behind the siding. Any moisture stains, discoloration, cracks or lifted areas around windows on a stucco sided house indicate a water problem. If the house is sided with EIFS, look for areas that appear to be pulling away form the siding or moisture on the window itself.

Staining or discoloration of any siding may also indicate a lack of flashing. If a microbial substance is observed around the window unit or on the siding; further investigation is warranted.

On the interior of the house, of course moisture stains would be the first indication of a problem. If the house has EIFS siding, and the window is loose in the frame; that may indicate rotted structural members do to improper flashing or installation. Window units should not stick or bind when being operated.  Check the lower areas of the sills for moisture stains. Look all around the window unit. Moisture may be present at the top, bottom or sides. If newer replacement windows have been installed, pay careful attention to all areas. I have seen air gaps on the top and sides of replacement window units. Remember calk is not a substitute for flashing. Just like the exterior; any microbial substance should be noted and further investigation should be recommended. Be sure to click the new products link for some information on new window and door flashing products.    

What To Do With 2 Slot Ungrounded Receptacles

What To Do With 2 Slot Ungrounded Receptacles

At least once a week I see older 2 slot ungrounded receptacles. Many times the main service panel and several branch circuits have been properly upgraded, however some older branch circuits were not updated. You can see in the right picture above that not one branch circuit in that panel contains a ground. Branch circuits may show a ground with a tester if they are bonded to the main service panel with AC or BX cable. (That was addressed in an earlier newsletter).  So how do you advise your clients when you see a 2 slot ungrounded receptacle? The best option is to install a new grounded 3 wire branch circuit. Another option is to install a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). The GFCI should be labeled “No Equipment Ground”. An electrician can also run a dedicated ground wire from the service panel or from a nearby grounded receptacle or branch circuit. A ground could also be installed from another approved ground source (water pipe with proper connections, external panel ground bus, etc). Many 3 slot grounded receptacles are improperly wired because they may be over amped. 15 amp receptacles will have 2 slots, with the neutral being slightly longer and a ground. 20 amp receptacles can be identified as having a perpendicular slot on the center of the neutral slot. Having a 20 amp circuit breaker with 12 AWG on a receptacle rated for 15 amps would be over amped / fused.  Although we are not conducting a technically exhaustive inspection, a good rule of thumb when it comes to receptacles:

• Any fixed in place appliance should not exceed 50% of a branch circuit amperage rating

Example: if the appliance is on a 20 amp branch circuit, it should not be rated at more than 10 amps.

• Any cord and plug connected appliance should not exceed 80% of a branch circuit amperage rating

     Example: if the cord and plug appliance is on a 20 amp branch circuit it should not be rated at more than 16 amps.

UNVENTED ATTIC SPACE

UNVENTED ATTIC SPACE

To vent or not to vent, that is the question! Home inspectors, building scientists and others seem to debate this point. We are seeing more “sealed” attic spaces in many new builds. These homes have no attic ventilation. Soffits are closed and no roof vents are present. Proponents of this construction claim that ventilation is not needed because because there is no air movement or air loss. Closed attic conditions require 3 methods. A class 1 vapor retarder should not be installed on the attic floor or at the ceiling above the attic space. Because closed cell foam insulation has a vapor barrier, additional vapor barriers will cause moisture to be trapped. Air impermeable insulation board installed between rafters or trusses should be sealed to form a continuous layer. The joints should be sealed to form a proper uninterrupted vapor barrier.  In colder climates, air impermeable insulation should be a class II vapor barrier, or should have a class III vapor barrier applied to the attic ceiling side of the insulation. What other conditions should a home inspector be looking for and how should your client be advised;

• Foam insulation under the roof deck may void asphalt shingle manufacturers warranties
• Leaks may not be visible until the deck has deteriorated significantly and shingles begin to fall off
• If the deck is deteriorated and has to be replaced, the insulation will also have to be replaced, increasing the cost
• If the house is completely spray foamed, recommending a properly sized Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) is installed

If the house has not been built, I recommend that spray foam is used on the attic floor. Proper attic ventilation can then be installed using soffit and ridge or roof vents. I have advised many clients with this advice and feel that it is the best way to provide adequate ventilation and still ensure the house is properly insulated.

The Smoke Detector Difference

The Smoke Detector Difference

Inspecting the location of smoke detectors is something that all home inspectors do. I still can’t believe the homes that do not have working or properly places smoke detectors. You would think that with all the publicity, everyone would understand the importance of them. This year at the Niagara Frontier Home Inspectors Training Conference, we will have an expert in Fire and Safety (Mel Shaw) discussing this issue. Using just a “basic” old style smoke detector is no longer acceptable. What exactly is the difference, and how can a home inspector properly advise the client? Ionization smoke alarms are responsive to flaming fires. Ionization smoke detectors have a small amount of radioactive material between two electrically charges plates, which ionize the air and causes current to flow between the plates. When smoke enters the chamber, it disrupts the flow of current and activates the alarm. Photoelectric smoke alarms are more responsive to smoke or smoldering fires. They aim a light source into a sensing chamber at an angle away from the sensor. Smoke enters the chamber reflecting light onto the light sensor, triggering the alarm. How can a home inspector tell the difference and properly advise their client?

A home inspector should advise their client to have a combination type (Photoelectric & Ionization) smoke detector. Here is how to tell the difference between Photoelectric, Ionization and Combination type smoke alarms:

Ionization Smoke Alarms

• A look case letter “i”
• The word “ionization”
• The phrase “contains radioactive material”
• The symbol for radioactive material

Photoelectric Smoke Alarms

• A capitol letter “P”
• The word “Photoelectric”
• The phrase “Photoelectric Technology”

Combination Ionization & Photoelectric Alarms

• May have the words; “photo” & “ion”
• A capitol letter “P” and lower case “i”
• The words “Photoelectric” and “Ionization”
• The words “Photoelectric Technology”
• The phrase “contains radioactive material”

Solution Series – Roof Venting

Solution Series – Roof Venting

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3 - 

4 - 

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Our Solution Series will address situations where routine repairs or upgrades may not be a possibility. I feel that identifying defects is only part of the home inspection; we are obligated to provide viable solutions.  

There are many instances where “normal” roof venting procedures are just not possible because of the roof construction. One of the most frustrating conditions may of us see in the field is a brand new roof covering with no or inadequate roof ventilation. If the roof structure does not have eaves for soffit vents, the roofer should have installed eaves or another method to ensure proper ventilation at the lower areas. We are told that the installer put ice and water shield under the covering. Unfortunately this membrane does not stop ice damming or provide adequate ventilation; its function is to limit water intrusion. The house will still ice dam, accumulate condensation in the attic space, and the shingle life will be diminished.  Why didn’t the contractor suggest adding soffits with proper ventilation when the roof covering was replaced? After we explain to our clients the necessity of proper attic / roof ventilation here are some great alternatives and suggestions we can give them even if a new covering has been installed without adequate ventilation.

Detail 1 – Installing special ridge vents on a hip style roof. We did feature hip ridge vents in a previous newsletter. Hip ridge vents are different than conventional ridge vents. The installation is also different. Hip ridge vents can be installed after a new covering was installed. They provide ventilation throughout the attic space.

Detail 2 & 3- Roof Intake Ventilation – Although I would recommend using the Smart Vent and Fascia Vent system, roof intake vents do have their place in certain applications. Roof intake ventilation should be installed as low or as close to the eave as possible. It can also be used near the top of the roof if the structure is attached to a wall.

Detail 4 & 5- Smart Vent Intake and Wall Exhaust – Where no eaves or soffit ventilation are installed (lower). The upper wall exhaust system work very well with shed style roof structures that terminate at a wall. Many roof structures do not extend to the ridge or to an area where there is adequate ventilation.

The vent combinations described above will help ensure your client has a solution to a roof structure with inadequate ventilation.

Sanitary Sewer Cleanouts: What Are The Requirements?

Sanitary Sewer Cleanouts: What Are The Requirements?

We are always seeing updated plumbing on many older homes. The old cast iron and galvanized DWV pipes are being replaced with PVC. Because of the ease of installation, many times these upgrades were performed by homeowners or amateurs. I rarely see enough cleanouts or cleanouts located at the proper areas. According the 2015 ICC Plumbing Code Section 708; cleanouts should be located in intervals not to exceed 100 feet. The junction of the building drain and the building sewer shall also have a cleanout. Where a horizontal drainage pipe, a building drain or a building sewer has a change of horizontal direction greater than 45 degrees, a cleanout shall be installed at the change of direction. These three standards are most understood, and often installed. Here are other requirements a home inspector should be looking for:

• Cleanouts shall be the same size as the piping served by the cleanout, except that cleanouts for piping larger than 4 inches need to be larger than 4 inches
• Cleanouts for 6-inch and smaller piping shall be provided with a clearance of not less than 18 inches. Cleanouts for 8-inch and larger piping shall have a clearance of not less than 36 inches
• Cleanouts shall not be installed in concealed locations including inside plenums, within walls, within floor / ceiling assemblies, below grade and in crawl spaces where the height from the crawl space floor to the nearest obstruction along the path from the crawl space opening to the cleanout location is less then 24 inches.
• Cleanouts with openings at a finished wall shall have the face of the opening located within 1 ½ inches of the finished wall surface
• Cleanouts located below grade shall be extended to the grade level so that the top of the cleanout plug  is at or above grade
• The use of a threaded cleanout opening to add a fixture or to extend piping shall be prohibited except where another cleanout of equal size is installed with the required access and clearance
• A removable P-trap with slip or ground joint connections can serve as a cleanout for drain piping that is one size larger that the p-trap size
• A toilet is not considered a cleanout
• Cleanouts located on stacks can be one size smaller than the stack size
• Cleanout plugs shall have a raised square head, a countersunk square head or a countersunk slot head
• The installation arrangement of a cleanout shall enable cleaning of drainage piping only in the direction of drainage flow
• Test tees can serve as cleanouts

Residential Sprinkler Systems – What a home inspector needs to know

Residential Sprinkler Systems – What a home inspector needs to know

There has been much discussion on the installation of residential fire sprinkler systems in one and two family dwellings. The ICC / IRC Section R313.2 was adopted in 2009 and became effective 2011. It states in part;

“An automatic residential fire sprinkler system shall be installed in one and two family dwellings”

Most states require automatic fire sprinkler systems in three story residences, apartment buildings, and many commercial buildings.

Currently, home inspectors are not required to inspect these systems. I believe that if laws are passed requiring sprinkler systems, that will be changed. A home inspection addresses safety issues, and this is definitely a safety issues. Although there is not a law requiring the installation of sprinkler systems in one and two family residences in New York State, there has been meetings of the New York State Residential Sprinkler Task Force. The last meeting took place February 4, 2013 with the New York State Department of State. The key points of this meeting were as follows:

• It is appropriate to add the requirement for sprinklers because sprinklers are now required for three story single family homes.
• Expanding the requirement to townhouses
• Only requiring sprinkler systems in larger homes is not appropriate because it is a life safety issue and only protects those who can afford a larger home
• If residential sprinklers are to be adopted, there should be a grace period of one to two years

In addition, New York State Bill – A7609-2013 provides a tax credit for the installation of fire sprinkler systems in residential homes. It would allow homeowners to deduct 25% of the materials and labor for the installation of a fire sprinkler system. Like most new requirements some trade organizations are in favor, some opposed.

So far California and Maryland have adopted requirements for automatic fire sprinkler systems in one and two family residences. Many states are in the process of reviewing the code, including New York. Most states have not passed the requirement on the state level, but have adopted legislation to allow for local jurisdictions to adapt the requirement. Minnesota and South Dakota have passed legislation banning the requirement to install sprinkler systems in 1 & 2 family residences.

Fire sprinklers are individually heat activated and connected to a network of pressurized water piping. When the heat rises to approximately 165-175 degrees F, a fusible link or glass bulb will activate only that sprinkler over the fire. As far as accidentally discharging; currently statistics indicate that only 1 in 16,000,000 sprinklers will open per year accidentally.

Although automatic fire sprinkler systems are not part of a visual home inspection (and hopefully are clearly expressed in your contract) here are some guidelines when you encounter a sprinkler system in the field:

• Nothing should be hanging from the sprinkler heads
• No sprinkler heads should have been painted, including overspray
• There should be no obstructions within 18 inches in any direction of the sprinkler head
• There should be no modifications made to the system. The water supply pipe for this system should only supply sprinkler heads
• There should be a pressure gauge where the main pipe for the sprinkler system branches off the main water pipe (usually near the main water shut off valve). The gauge should indicate between 40 and 70 PSI.
• If pressure is lower than 40 PSI, recommend the system is evaluated by a qualified installer
• It is recommended that fire sprinkler systems should have a test valve. You can inform the homeowner that this is the best way to test the system and to ensure water is flowing through the system. It should be tested/open once a month
• Some fire sprinkler systems are connected to a home security or alarm system
• Sprinkler systems should have an alarm that goes off after 90 seconds, and some have a safety device that will shut the water off in the case of a malfunction

It seems that many states and local jurisdiction will adopt the residential requirement for fire sprinkler systems for one and two family dwellings. Home inspectors may or may not be required to inspect these systems. I have inspected two new builds in the past year fitted with automatic fire sprinkler systems. Securing a certification to inspect these systems is something that professional home inspectors may want to consider.

Installing Exterior Insulated Finishing System (EIFS)

Installing Exterior Insulated Finishing System (EIFS)

Recently I had the opportunity to attend an EIFS installers class. Anytime I get the opportunity to attend an installers class presented by the manufacture I take it. I have taken several and you would be surprised how many items or systems are installed incorrectly. Even though they may appear to be installed correctly, the manufacture may void the warranty or it will not operate as efficiently as desired. In the case of EIFS, we all know the issues that in the past has given it a bad name. However, it is a great product and the issues associated with it are all related to poor or improper installation. Outsulation or EIFS is manufactured in 2’ x 4’ panels, in thicknesses of ¾” to 4”. It is not approved for interior applications. It also increases R factor. If installed correctly eliminates thermal breaks. EIFS helps maintain a constant interior temperature. You can find more technical information here: http://www.dryvit.com/tools-resources/technical-literature/. There is also a very nice guide you can give clients that have EIFS installed.

So let’s take a look at how outsulation or EIFS should be installed and what a home inspector should see in the field:

·         The best substrate for EIFS is; cement board, fiberglass coated gypsum (EXP), concrete, block, exterior grade plywood, or Moisture 1 OSB

·         If is not recommended to be installed over masonite, pressure treated plywood, or fiberboard

·         It is recommended that the panels are glued, however it can be fastened using approved fasteners

·         Expansion joints should be present

·         Cannot be used in areas with a 6 in 12 pitch, roofing materials must be used for this

·         Must terminate 8” above grade

·         The foam should be installed in a “picture frame” configuration around windows and doors

·         To facilitate moisture drainage, a notched trowel 3/8” x 1/2’ x 1 1/2’ should be used with vertical lines and a drainage strip at the bottom.

·         Proper flashing should be installed in all areas either by rubberized tape or liquid application

·         Any discoloration, flaking or damage should be noted on your report

·         Check interior areas around doors, windows, and transitions

Inspecting Staircases

Inspecting Staircases

Stairs are in almost every house we inspect. Inspectors are aware of most of the issues with staircases; loose railings, to large a space between balusters, damage and rot. But building standards have changed. And what about spiral staircases – especially those “kits”. We will also outline how to inspect spiral staircases.  First a few changes. A flight of stairs should not have a vertical rise of more than 12 feet. Open risers are permitted, provided that the opening between treads does not permit the passage of a 4 inch sphere. A tread nosing is not required when the depth is 11 inches or more. Enclosed accessible spaces under stairs shall have walls, under stair surface and any soffits protected on the enclosed side with ½ gypsum board. All dimensions are exclusive of carpets, rugs, and runners. Hand railings must be installed on at least one side of the staircase with 4 or more risers, and the triangular openings formed by the riser, tread and bottom rail must not allow a 6 inch sphere to pass through

 Here is what a home inspector should look for in conventional and spiral staircases (they are different) :

What To Look For: Conventional Staircases

• 36” landings at a minimum and at least the width of the door and stairs served
• Stairways should be a minimum of 36 inches wide
• Hand railings should not project more than 4.5 inches on either of the stairway
• Maximum riser height shall not exceed 7 ¾ inches with differences not exceeding 3/8 inch
• Minimum depth shall be 10 inches with differences not exceeding 3/8 inch
• Tread nosing shall be not less than ¾ inch and not exceed 1 ¼ inch.
• Minimum headroom at all parts of the staircase shall be at least 6 feet 8 inches
• Winder treads should be at least 10 inches measured at a point 12 inches from the side where the treads are narrower. All winder treads should have a minimum tread depth of 6 inches from any point
• Landings shall be installed in all areas where a door opens over the stairs
• Handrails should be at least 34 inches high and not more than 38 inches and should travel directly above the top and bottom riser and should terminate on newel posts or safety terminals. Handrails may be interrupted by a newel post and connected to one over the lowest tread
• The space between the handrail and the wall shall be at least 1 ½ inches
• Lighting for an interior staircase shall be located in the vicinity each landing
• Lighting for an exterior staircase shall be located in the vicinity of the top landing
• Access to a basement from the outside grade level shall have lighting in the vicinity of the bottom landing

What To Look For: Spiral Staircases

• The minimum stair width shall be 26 inches with each tread having a 7 ½ inches minimum tread depth at 12 inches from the narrow edge.
• Treads and risers shall be uniform
• The rise should be no larger than 9 ½ inches
• A minimum headroom will be 6 feet 6 inches

INSPECTING NOTCHES AND HOLES IN JOISTS

                         INSPECTING NOTCHES AND HOLES IN JOISTS

                         

The most abused structural member is the joist! There is rarely a week that goes by where I do not see a joist that has been compromised. Sometimes it is HVAC duct, or maybe a plumbing pipe. Home inspectors are not conducting an engineering inspection, however there are some guidelines we should use in the field to ensure our clients potential house will remain structurally sound. No notches should be in the center third of a joist span. A notch can be cut in the ends, however they can’t be deeper than 1/6^th the actual depth of the joist or any wider than 1/3 its depth. For instance; if you had a 2 X 8 floor joist, which actually measures 7 1/2” high, the notch can’t be any deeper than 1 ¼” or any wider than 2 ½” Notches at the ends of the joist shall not exceed ¼” the depth of the member. The length of the notch should not exceed 1/3 the joist depth The tension side (bottom) of members 4” or greater shall not be notched except at the ends of the rafters. Drilled holes can’t be any closer than 2” from the edges of the joist or to any other hole or notch in the member. The maximum diameter of the hole can not be larger than 1/3 the joists actual depth. Using the 2 X 8 example; that would be a 2 ½” hole. For ceiling joists and rafters, the requirements are a little different. Like a floor joist, nothing can be drilled or notched in the center third of the span. A notch in the top of the rafter / ceiling joist is allowed, however it can be no larger than 1/3 the rafter / ceiling joist depth. For example a 2 X 12 rafter could have a 4” notch within 12” from the end. A bored hole can be no larger than 1/3 the depth of the rafter and a minimum of 2” from the top or bottom edge. Structural members should never be ripped. Doing this will change the structural strength.

Holes or notches in manufactured lumber must be in compliance with the manufactures direction or by a qualified design professional.