Inspecting Manufactured I Joists
Manufactured I joists were first introduced in 1969. They
consist of a top and bottom member, called a flange with a web between. The
original web material was plywood; it has been replaced with OSB in the 1990’s.
Some webs are manufactured with LVL (Laminated Vaneer Lumber). The flange can
be sawn lumber, LVL, or LSL (Laminated Structural Lumber).
Flange sizes range from 15/16” to 1 1/2” thick, and from 1
1/2” to 3 1/2” wide. Web thickness for residential applications is either 3/8”
to 7/16” thick.
Standard depth sizes are; 9 ½”, 11 7/8”, 14”, and 16”. Some
manufactures offer a commercial I joist with depths of up to 32”. Lengths of up
to 60 feet are available. I joists are also used to frame roof structures,
including cathedral designs. They provide the ability to build expansive clear
span roof sections and offer the capacity to install deep blankets of roof
insulation and also allow enough room for proper soffit to ridge venting. These
joists are more stable because the manufacture is controlled. Moisture content
is more closely matched to the environment. Shrinkage, nail pops, and squeaks
are significantly reduced or eliminated.
Manufactured I joists have gained popularity because of
their lighter weight, uniform dimension, stability, and long span capability.
Holes can be drilled in the web to accommodate plumbing, electrical and HVAC
components. Not all builders use them. There have been questions of fire
rating. Whether you like them or not; they have been installed in thousands of
buildings of homes that we inspect. Here is what we should be looking for:
- The
ends of an I- joist should be capped with a rim joist to hold the joist
vertical
- If
I- joists are flush mounted against a beam they must be fastened to it
using proper metal hangers
- I-
joists should be perfectly plumb and level
- There
should be no water damage
- Nothing
heavy should be hung or suspended from the joists
- Holes
up to 1-1/2” in diameter can be drilled anywhere in the web, as long as
they are at least 6 inches away from any end or load bearing wall.
- Joist
tops or bottoms (flange) should not be cut, notched, or modified.
- Holes
up to 4” in diameter can be drilled in the middle of the joist, away from
the ends and load bearing wall. Holes larger than 4 inches, may be drilled
depending on the manufacture recommendations.
- The
distance between adjacent holes should be at least twice the diameter of
the largest hole.
- I
joists can be used for cantilevering. Each manufacture has specifications
outlining the distances.
- No
larger than a 1 ½” hole may be drilled in a cantilevered area. Larger
holes may be drilled, depending on the manufactures recommendations.
- Many
manufactures provide pre-drilled knock outs. They should be utilized
before drilling additional holes.
- To
Stiffen I-Joists – attach a 19/32 or 23/32 inch thick plywood panel to
both sides of the joist using glue and nails
- Ensure
I-joist are glued and nailed
- I-Joists
less than 14’ should have cross bridging, blocking, or bottom strapping in
the center. Over 14’, it should be installed in the 1/3 span locations.
Fire Protection
Independent tests show that when compared to protected
systems, unprotected framing systems (combustible or non-combustible) suffer
increased structural degradation when exposed to fire. All floor framing
materials; sawn lumber, wood I-joists, trusses, and light gauge steel, succumb
to fire quickly if not protected. Applying a protective membrane, such as gypsum
board to floor framing will provide some protection. This includes double ½” or
5/8” X board.


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